Bileez!It’s a name that remained shrouded in mystery for centuries, its etymology onlyrecently confirmed to be of Mayaorigin.And as you begin exploringand making your way around “The Jewel”—as Belizeans call their home–you willquickly realizethat this smallcountryin the heart ofCentral America is,indeed,onebig, colorful collage of origins.
Belize is roots. And Belize is rhythms.
It’s a small place overflowing with ancientcustoms, indigenous tongues,and traditionspassed on from generation to generation.It’s a nation whose people are intent on preserving their ancestry, and fiery in protecting their pristine environment against the vices of the modern world. It’s a haven for diversity—a land that has welcomedsettlers and migrant populations across the centuries,with sevenmajor cultural groups enrichingevery corner of the country.
In Belize, roots are
Thetwo thousand year old Mayatemples you’ll climb
The incomparable living Barrier Reef, where hundreds of crittersawait
Thecaves and crevices where sacrificial relics lie
The idyllic cayes, where fishing and flip-flops are a way of life
The medicinal plants,and the furry kinkajous onyour rainforest walks
The riversideKriol communities, and the mangrovecathedrals hugging your boat
The vast reserves and jungle hikes, where you’ll conquer yourfears
The sizzling tacos, and steamy johnnycakesthat fill your belly on the road
The Mestizo fiestas,and the thatched-roof villageswhere time seems to have stopped
Thatsweet Belizean rum, andthespicy micheladas curing your hangovers.
As you discover more roots on your journey across the Jewel, you’ll fall into a world of vibrant sounds.
In Belize,rhythms are
The drumbeats of the Garifuna, and the swing of their punta
The beat of the steel pan, and the thump of the sambai
The song of scarlet macaws, and the croaks of the keel billed toucan
The melodic sounds of Kriol, Qeq’chi, and Chinese
The ringof the Maya marimba, and the nostalgic blues ofparanda
The chilling roar of howler monkeys, and the gush of 1,000-feet waterfalls
The stealth prowlof jaguars in the night, and the squeal of manatees underwater
The mystical deer dances, and the shamans of yesteryear
The cheer of marching bands, and the joyful spirit of September carnivals
Thestoriesshared over Sunday dinner, and that sweet, slow Caribbean pace.
Wherever you end up in the Jewel, finddi roots, and you’llfeeldirhythms—ours, and yours.
It’s November 19. In dories and boats, the Garinagu bring coconut, plantain, cassava, and the drums of their ancestors to Dangriga’s shores, as the crowds—Belizeans and visitors alike—cheer and celebrate in the streets. This is Yurumein: the reenactment of the Garifuna journey to Belize. Garifuna Settlement Day is also a national holiday across Belize since 1943. It’s a celebration of culture, resilience, and vision.
A distinct cultural group
Yurumein translates to “St. Vincent,” an island in the Lesser Antilles and the homeland of the Garinagu. It’s where escaped West Africans from two shipwrecks in the 1600s—Spanish vessels on the way to the “New World”—took refuge from enslavement. They met the Arawaks and Caribs who were living on St. Vincent, and the inter-relations among these three—Africans, Arawaks, and Caribs—gave birth to the Garifuna people as a distinct cultural group.
The Garinagu lived in peace and prosperity on St. Vincent, alongside French settlers, until the British tried to colonize the island in 1763. Despite their best defense, the Garinagu were forced to surrender in 1796. The British subjugated and expelled them, transporting a large number of Garinagu to the inhospitable island of Balliceaux, and later to Roatán. Many Garinagu died during these crimes against humanity, while those who survived traveled to mainland Honduras, Guatemala, and Belize. Their culture and spirit of freedom lived on as they navigated from place to place.
Belize’s Garinagu
The Garinagu established coastal communities in Belize’s southern districts by the early 1800s. The abolition of the slave trade in 1808, coupled with emancipation in 1838, triggered a shortage of workers and they were allowed to settle as laborers for the mahogany trade. Many were later trained as educators; from the 1870s through the 1970s, they traveled the length and breadth of Belize to teach in rural primary schools.
Predominant Belizean Garifuna communities today are Barranco, Georgetown, Seine Bight, Hopkins, Dangriga, Punta Gorda, and Libertad. These traditionally relied on subsistence fishing and farming, but they’ve since engaged in other industries.
Music and dance
Men, women, and children dance to the drums in brightly colored headscarves, dresses, and dashikis. Among music, genres are the chumba, chárikanári, hüngühüngü, paranda, punta, and wánaragua, each with a specific purpose. Embedded within songs are the values, history, and identity of the Garinagu.
Punta is a faster-paced rhythm and dance—an offshoot you’re likely to hear is punta rock, created by Garifuna artist Pen Cayetano, which fostered a new level of cultural appreciation around the time of Belize’s independence in the 1980s.
Food and crafts
Garifuna meals feature plantain, banana, cassava, yam, and seafood. One of the main dishes is hudut—a coconut-based fish soup served with plantains mashed in a traditional mortar. A number of meals are made with coconut milk, like bundiga and tapóu. There’s also ereba, or cassava bread. Cooking utensils are an integral part of Garifuna traditional knowledge, such as the ruguma, a woven instrument used to extract fluids from the cassava, or the híbise, a woven sifter used for cassava bread making.
Beliefs and values
Two sacred Garifuna rituals are the Beluria, a celebration held nine nights after a person’s death, and the Dügü, a private family reunion to celebrate and connect with the spirits of ancestors. Garifuna rituals bring reconciliation and healing in the family, including the ancestors; the bond among extended families is strong, as is the respect granted, elders.
Preserving the future
In 2008, UNESCO proclaimed the Garifuna language, music, and dance as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. Celebrating the Garifuna culture in Belize ensures that future generations remain proud of their identity and history, and proud of their ancestors.
The story of Chaa Creek began in 1977 when two young travelers stumbled upon what would later become their adopted home. In those days most business was conducted around bar room tables in Belize City and it was there that Mick and Lucy Fleming ran into the owner of an overgrown 140 acre farm on the Macal River in the Cayo District.
They soon moved out to the jungle property and within a short while the land was producing home grown vegetables. In those days the farm had no road access so the Flemings transported their produce by dugout canoe to the ready markets of San Ignacio Town, much as the Maya had done 1,000 years before.
The little farm was soon producing milk, yoghurt, cheese and eggs; as well as two baby Flemings. When other travelers heard about the farm they would often trek out to visit, sometimes staying to lend a hand. As more visitors came, the Fleming’s one room farmhouse became smaller and smaller and the idea was launched to build a guest cottage from materials found on the land.
Chaa Creek Cottages, the first jungle lodge in Belize, opened its doors in 1981 and over the next few decades growth has kept pace with the ever increasing number of visitors.
The Chaa Creek road was built by the British Army Corps of Engineers in 1983 and was accompanied by the addition of a dining room to cater to the six existing cottage rooms. Two years later indoor plumbing was installed and a further six cottage rooms, a 6,000 gallon water tower, staff quarters and a gift shop were built.
The year 1987 brought electrification to Chaa Creek which meant that washing machines replaced scrub boards, a deep freezer saw the end of salted blocks of ice and a submersible water pump retired the gasoline engine relay pumping system. A batch of new canoes took guests on excursions down the Macal River.
The luxury of a hot water shower was introduced in 1988 while an ice machine helped make the perfect margarita for guests who relaxed on the deck of the bar. The cottage rooms had grown by four to a total of 16. To round off the year an office was built and outdoor lighting was installed in the gardens.
All of the cottages were upgraded in 1990 and a new business office was established in nearby San Ignacio Town. In order to accommodate horseback riding and hiking, nature trails were cut through the forested property which had by now expanded to 330 acres. The property was officially designated a private nature reserve.
By 1992 there were 26 members of staff in residence at Chaa Creek. Infrastructure was upgraded and a new horse corral was built for the increasing number of horses. Chaa Creek also played host to a team of archaeologists who were invited to investigate the ancient Maya sites that dotted the property. Their reconnaissance mapped out over 70 ancient sites.
The Chaa Creek Natural History Centre was established in 1995 to become the first one of its kind in Belize. The Centre houses interpretive displays of the local flora, fauna, ecosystems and geology of Belize. Maya archaeology exhibits display ancient artifacts recovered from within the reserve and offer interpretive views of the life and culture of this early civilization. There are also anthropology exhibits depicting the life and culture of the modern Maya. Natural resource conservation and ecology exhibits offer educational information to the hundreds of local and international students that visit the facility.
In 1997 the Macal River Camp was constructed along the banks of the Macal River just downstream from the Lodge. This facility is totally solar powered and consists of ten raised platform screened cabins with its own kitchen and dining area. The camp was built to accommodate student groups and provide an option for the more budget conscious traveler.
Further building and renovations in 1997 resulted in a total of 21 cottages at Chaa Creek including a Luxury Suite and a Jacuzzi Suite. 1998 saw the addition of electric lighting to replace kerosene lamps and fans for added guest comfort.
The Spa at Chaa Creek was constructed in 1999 and offers our guests a complete line of professional and refreshing spa services while enjoying a panoramic view of the majestic Macal River valley and the Maya Mountains beyond. Next in 2000 came the opening of The Conference Centre at Chaa Creek. This beautifully designed structure was put in place to provide a facility for both local and international conferences, meetings and social functions.
Two spectacular Tree Top Jacuzzi Suites overlooking the Macal River were constructed in 2002 to replace two of the older cottages which were taken out of service. 2003 saw the addition of the expansive Orchard Villa and the Sky Room with its enchanting view of the river valley. This expanded the accommodations inventory at Chaa Creek to a total of 23 outstanding cottages, suites and villas.
The construction of a fully equipped carpentry shop was completed in 2003. This provided Chaa Creek with the ability to design and manufacture our own furniture and other items of wood construction that are found throughout the property. Expansion and improvement of the trail system within the now 400-acre Chaa Creek Nature Reserve was completed in 2004. With over 10 miles of well-maintained trails, the Nature Reserve offers our guests exceptional opportunities for naturalist hiking and birding as well as horseback riding.
Next to come was the Chaa Creek Stables which opened in 2005. This functionally designed structure houses our equestrian centre and provides our guests with an enhanced and professional riding experience.
Our cottage accommodations have also benefited from annual renovations, and during 2005 and 2006 a complete remodel took place. All rooms and suites now have large new bathrooms, many with outdoor walled showers, al fresco Jacuzzis, and spacious private sun decks for wildlife viewing.
In January 2009, the guests of Chaa Creek were treated to the cooling luxury of a 56,000 gallon swimming pool. This eco-friendly infinity pool was built with both adults and children in mind. Its bi-level configuration allows for swimming and paddling pools, as well as generous lounging space for dining, sun bathing and relaxation.
2010 added more infrastructural advancements by securing direct electrical lines from the national provider, BEL, as well as upgrading telecommunications internet symmetry with Belize Telecommunications Ltd. The following years continued the evolution with the renovations of several rooms and by adding the purchase and renovation of a San Ignacio townhouse to host the iconic Guava Limb Restaurant & Cafe in 2012. The award-winning café, along with a new bakery facility at Chaa Creek, has produced mouth-watering delicacies for the most discerning of tastes for Belizeans and visitors alike.
The most exciting new entries onto the Chaa Creek landscape are the strikingly beautiful Ix Chel Villas set within their own secluded private gardens with private plunge pools and jacuzzies. The two state-of-the-art Villas are comprised of two suites each that can be booked together for family travellers or independently for honeymooners. A private butler attends to the villa guests activities requests, needs and desires.
Twelve-year-old Madison Edwards is the first Belizean to swim and snorkel the length of the Belize Barrier Reef. Her goal: to create awareness of the reef’s value and encourage her generation—and the government—to stand up against oil exploration.
By Madison Pearl Edwards
When someone asks how long I’ve been an activist, I’m taken back to that feeling when I ended my sentence with: “Leave my dolphins alone!” It was the beginning of my journey as an activist.
It was the day I found out there were seismic ships conducting tests in our waters, approximately 30 minutes from San Pedro, in the deep offshore. Seismic ships are used to survey the ocean floor and pinpoint the best areas for oil drilling and exploration. They use air guns, known to disturb animal migration, and deafen whales and dolphins. I remember feeling angry and confused at the idea of this happening so close to our precious Barrier Reef Reserve. My parents were headed to a town meeting on the issue, and I was stuck at home doing homework and feeling helpless. That’s when I decided to use social media to make my voice heard, and I filmed my first selfie video for the reef.
A different world
I grew up hearing stories of my mother’s childhood days in San Pedro. She rode her bike to school on sandy streets, and enjoyed nature away from computer screens. She remembers seeing different species of fish, eels, rays, and dolphins from the boat dock where she spent her free time enjoying the sea. Things are different now. We do have amazing reserves in Belize, where fishing isn’t allowed, and the marine life is rich. And yet—there seems to be a drastic difference between my mom’s stories and my own.
If the population of fish in the sea continues to decline and people keep stepping on corals, taking selfies with starfish and cutting down mangroves, how different will my own children’s stories be? I understood this at the age of 10, but I trusted the adults to handle things.
When the seismic ships showed up off our Belizean shores, I felt betrayed. My feelings of anger and helplessness turned into something too powerful to keep quiet. I went to every protest against offshore oil. Beach cleanups became a regular family outing. I was unstoppable, and yet not much changed. I needed to do something more radical. With the help of Captain MJ Leslie from San Pedro, my friend Tina, and my parents, I set sail on my biggest adventure yet.
Sailing for a purpose
The plan was to snorkel the Belize Barrier Reef for a week to create awareness of its importance. The sailing trip started on Ambergris Caye and ended on the last island at the tip of the Belize Barrier Reef—Seal Caye. With each snorkel, I discovered new facts. Did you know that while coral reefs only cover 0.0025 percent of the oceanic floor, they generate half of Earth’s oxygen andabsorb nearly one-third of the carbon dioxide generated from burning fossil fuels?
My logbook filled up quickly, and Captain MJ brought books along to teach me all he knew about the species we encountered. Most nights we slept under the stars, on the bow of our sailboat. I connected with nature and appreciated it more than I ever had in the past. The trash we saw along the way started to annoy me, and I realized that we weren’t doing our best to take care of our home.
Making a difference
I’ve made numerous videos since that first one defending my dolphins. I’ve embraced public speaking even though it’s my least favorite thing to do, because I know it’s important for people to know that we can make a difference for our planet.
In 2017, I was honored to be named Oceana’s Ocean Hero. It gave me the confidence to continue speaking up for our reef and our environment. Thanks to the World Wildlife Fund, I recently attended the 42nd season of the World Heritage Committee Meeting in Manama, Bahrain, where our Belize Barrier Reef was finally taken off the UNESCO’s List of World Heritage in Danger. I felt proud to speak on behalf of my generation.
An activist like me cannot create change on her own. There has to be someone else listening, and when we work together, the change happens. I hope we can continue to learn and share ways to make a difference for Belize together, so that my generation and those to come can continue enjoying a living planet, and a healthy, second largest barrier reef in the world.
BETEX 2019- ROADSHOW COMING TO PLACENCIA, CAYO, SAN PEDRO
Date: May 8-13, 2019
Place: Belize, Central America
Organized by: Belize Tourism Industry Association
The Belize Tourism Expo 2019 (BETEX 2019) will be hosted in Belize on May 8 – 13, 2019 – it’s a ROADSHOW!
BETEX 2019 will take you on an adventure across Belize to enjoy cultural rhythms and food in each destination visited, visit and experience the country’s natural attractions and activities, network one-on-one with the people, engage in business conversations during 3 sessions of scheduled meetings, participate in site inspections, and much more.
BETEX is open to registered participants only, showcasing Belize travel destinations, hotels, tour operators and other tourism service providers. By attending BETEX, participants gain an immediate competitive advantage for their businesses and stay abreast of the latest developments in Belize.
Contact us at betex@btia.org for more details on how to register.
Discover the cultural wealth of Belize in the 20th edition of Destination Belize. The photo of the men playing the Maya Fire Ball game on the cover featured, highlights the Roots of Belize – its indigenous ancestry and multiple ethnic groups that make up Belize’s fascinating heritage.
Rhythms
Immerse in the authentic cultural adventures of Belize in the 20th edition of Destination Belize. The photo of the Half Moon Caye Natural Monument located on Lighthouse Reef Atoll, highlights the Rhythms of Belize – intoxicating and transformative, leading you to your own favorite corner of Belize.
(click on photo below to see magazine in its entirety)
Go Beyond the Pages and experience the beauty of Belize’s Roots and Rhythms.
As we discovered in a previous blog, everything is not always as it seems. Cashew nut is in fact a fruit and chocolate comes from a seed. This month we talk a little about one of Belize’s favorite foods, Conch; where it lives, how its caught, how its cooked and how… it’s a snail!
If you are eating conch in Belize, you are most likely eating Queen Conch. Horse Conch or mai mula as it is locally known is also eaten especially in ceviche but sadly it is now rare and considered a delicacy. Queen Conch is a large sea snail that can be found close to the reef in shallow water in the sand or seagrass. Conch don’t like to stay in one place and tend to travel miles looking for food. They move about in groups or schools using their “foot” to drag them across the sandy sea bottom.
Local fishermen are skilled at knowing where to find them and only those with a commercial fishing license are allowed to catch them. They are relatively easy to catch but extracting what’s inside requires skill and precision. The fisherman makes a small hole in the spiral part of the shell preferably using another conch shell (a knife is liable to break). This hole breaks the vacuum inside the shell making the meat easy to extract. Once extracted it needs to be cleaned of all the brown skin, best done with a fillet knife. The “nail” and eyes are normally discarded or kept as bait or to chum. Experienced Conch fisherman never throw the empty shells back into the same place they have caught the conch as other conch will not return to this place. Instead they wait until their catch is complete at the end of the day and throw the shells back in, where there aren’t any conch. That is why you often see piles of shells in one place.
Freshly extracted conch meat can be eaten immediately as its sweet and tender. The tough muscle or foot can be tenderized with a mallet so that it too can be consumed. Every local fisherman and chef have their own special recipe for conch ceviche but staple ingredients include conch meat of course, lime (lots of it) cilantro, onion, tomato and habanero pepper(if desired). Conch fritters, conch soup (which is known to be good for the back) and conch steak are the most popular dishes you will come across in Belize. However, if you want to ensure that you get to try one or all of these tasty dishes you need to visit between 1st October and 30th June which is open conch season. At all other times of the year, the fishing and serving of conch is forbidden in order to maintain the conch population. Luckily that time is now.
Destination Belize Magazine 